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The
Majestic "Perito Moreno" Glacier - by Nancy
My Travel Tale relates to a South American adventure I undertook
in June 2000. Specifically, I would like to share with you
some of the most fascinating feelings I have experienced,
when I stood in front of one of the largest glacier`s in the
World "The Perito Moreno".
To start my tale, I first left Buenos Aires (Argentina) on
a plane that would take me to Rio Gallegos. After a 3 hour
flight, I arrived at Rio Gallegos. Wow!! Was I in shock, the
airport is right in the middle of nowhere and primitive is
not the word, but at least I was there ready to start my adventure.
We found and boarded the bus that would take our group to
El Calafate (the nearest town to the Perito Moreno). The loneliness
of the road for the next six hours was unexpected. Seeing
the vultures on the side of the road watching and waiting
was unnerving, it was like they were wishing the bus would
break down so they could eat us alive! It did make you feel
like you were in a horror movie.
The wind was blowing very strongly when we arrived at El Calafate,
and I can tell you it feels like it penetrates through your
bones it was so freezing cold. This didn't matter though,
as I was very excited because I was going to see the glacier
the next day!
That night I went out for dinner to experience the famous
Argentinean "Parrillada" (the Argentinean BBQ with
the lot and I do mean with the lot!). I don't think there
was anything missing on that BBQ, you had it all, intestines,
utters, bull testicles, kidneys, sweet breads, well anything
that you may find on a cow or lamb was there. If you really
want a hint, just don't ask what you are eating and you will
enjoy it as much as I did.
The next day started with a surprise. The bus was due to pick
us up at 10.00am, which I thought was quite late to start
a tour. Soon though I discovered the reason why? It was still
as dark as night at 10.00am! The bus departed and we then
spent the next two hours travelling some 78 kilometres up
to the glacier. The slowness of the trip gives you some idea
of what the roads were like. I'm sure if I had a bottle of
milk with me, all the bumps in the road would have turned
it into butter by the time we reached the glacier.
Finally we had arrived at the point which overlooks the glacier.
In front of us we saw one of the greatest spectacles in the
"World of Nature". It was enough for us to even
forget our upsets stomachs from the bumpy ride. Remember I
had told you how excited I was about seeing the Perito Moreno,
well I didn't know what exciting was until I actually saw
this huge mass of baby blue coloured ice in front of me! You
just forget about everything else in the world. Initially
you're not sure if the groans you can hear are coming from
the glacier or it's your heart beating with joy at experiencing
this most amazing view.
The Perito Moreno Glacier is located southwest of the Province
of Santa Cruz. It has a length of 30 kilometres and a surface
of some 257 sq km. This spectacular mass of ice that floats
upon the Argentine Lake and that approaches 70 metres in height,
leaves you breathless when you are facing it. As the ice forms,
all the pressure of snow and ice above compresses the lower
levels of the glacier and the result is ice that's so dense
that it becomes blue. The water of the lake also has a special
colour, given to it by the mineral particles that originate
from the grinding of the glacier against the rocky bed. The
Perito Moreno is exceptional though, because it's one of the
few glaciers in the world that's advancing rapidly. It moves
forward 1 metre per day, but it loses about 8 metres of ice
per day from around its edges due to evaporation and calving.
As it moves it pops, groans and cracks, with occasionally
enormous pieces falling off the front and into the lake. Some
of these are as big as houses and the sound they produce when
they fall is amazing. Often the noise will trigger another
break off, just like the one before.
Well the day is coming to an end, it is 3.00pm and the sun
is going down. We must return to El Calafate now, as it's
starting to snow and the roads will become very slippery.
Oh well, I guess we can all have ENO tonight when we get to
the hotel to fix our upside down stomachs! This time though,
when we head off to a restaurant for dinner, I will not ask
what is on the menu ha ha ha.
Submitted: 4 April 2002
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